In the late 18th and early 19th centuries fortified towers were constructed around Jersey’s coastline as defences against the French. One of the earliest, Seymour Tower, is perched on a granite rock one-and-a-half miles offshore – but the sea only surrounds it for some of the time. Jersey’s 30–40ft tides are amongst the highest in the world. They’re so big that the island almost doubles in size at low tide, revealing a remarkable marine environment of sand bars, gullies and reefs around Seymour Tower that can be explored on foot.
In the company of a guide it’s possible to walk out to some of these towers. But Seymour Tower’s ‘Moonwalk’ is unique since you spend the night there. This particular walk’s strange sobriquet isn’t just a reference to the overnight stay. It also alludes to the unearthly terrain you cover, reminiscent of the moon’s surface – or possibly the fact that its participants may be mad to undertake it. After all, it does involve crossing a wilderness that, for several hours a day, is covered by 40ft of Atlantic Ocean.
It’s a very special place. The area around the tower is a RAMSAR site, a wetland designated as being of international importance based on a treaty signed at Ramsar, Iran in 1971.
My advance briefing with walk leader and guide Derek Hairon, proprietor of Jersey Kayak and Walk Adventures, left me in little doubt that one of us had been touched by lunar influences. I just wasn’t sure if it was him or me as we stood by the sea wall at La Roque an hour or so after high tide, looking out towards a distant square tower jutting tooth-like from the waves. Between it and us it lay one thing: a million gallons of salt water.
But as we chatted about the kit required for the walk, I suddenly became aware of new patterns in the seascape. Already, 20 or 30 pinnacles of rock had become visible. Then, in what seemed like a matter of moments, a whole new landscape appeared. I now found myself looking at an emerging mass of shingle banks and gullies, giant rock outcrops and water-filled pools. The speed with which the tide was receding was barely credible.
Derek explained that the tide drops by around 20ft in three hours. No wonder the vista before me was changing so rapidly. The penny dropped too: it dawned on me that the reverse is also true – that an incoming tide can rise at the same rate. This rock-strewn maritime moonscape is not a place to be meddled with in a sea mist in the hours after low tide. I didn’t need to ask Derek for confirmation. He could see from the look on my face that I had understood. He just nodded.
And pointed. A couple of hundred yards to the left of the tower stood a tall pole with a small platform at its summit, ladders on two sides and the whole structure anchored by steel cables. It’s a rescue beacon that’s high enough to allow you sit out a 40ft tide – but only just, although you may get your feet wet. Despite the spring sunshine, I shivered at the thought.
Calamities are, thankfully, very rare due to plentiful warning notices and an immense local respect for this tidal phenomenon. That didn’t stop two ladies out horse riding in the bay who, despite years of local knowledge, were suddenly enveloped in sea fog as the tide turned and nightfall approached. Luckily, they came upon Seymour Tower and rode their panic-stricken horses up the granite steps. All survived, but not without a complex rescue mission as the horses weren’t inclined to leave the tower at low tide.
When we set off it soon became obvious that walking in a straight line to Seymour Tower is impossible. From the shoreline at La Rocque picking out a route looked straightforward enough, but the reality was very different. Our guide took us on a winding route through gullies and pools, some still knee-deep in water, picking his way though a complex, confusing maze of rocks and reefs. Down here it was all too easy to see how you could be cut off by an advancing tide as it swiftly filled one gully after another.
We walked across rocks still glistening wet and poked around in rock pools brightened by red granite, scallop shells and varieties of slippery seaweed. Derek stopped from time to time to explain everything from the mating habits of limpets to the history behind the occasional letter ‘P’ found on rocks (it denoted the ancient fishing and seaweed-collecting rights of the Payne family). When we reached the rescue beacon, 20ft above us there was seaweed snagged on its supporting cables, a stark reminder of the forces at work here every 12 hours.
We were soon approaching Seymour Tower. Home, sweet home for tonight at least. The tower, which sleeps 10, mightn’t boast all mod cons but it came with essential safety equipment including a radio transceiver, flares and lanterns, plus a range of basic amenities: a chemical toilet, gas cooker, crockery and cutlery, and lighting powered by two solar panels on the roof.
Estate agents would describe the accommodation as having ‘rustic charm’ but it was a far cry from the comfort of the Samares Coast Hotel and its attentive staff who were my hosts for the ‘mainland’ portion of my stay in Jersey.
But the views were more dramatic, the company excellent and the food wholesome. All supplies must be taken with you along with a sleeping bag and toiletries. We managed splendidly, concocting a wonderful evening meal of stuffed red peppers with Derek’s home-grown Jersey Royal potatoes, followed by an assortment of cakes and biscuits plus a few bottles of beer.
And who needs a TV when the early evening’s entertainment was provided by the encroaching tide washing over our footprints until, at around 7pm, it reached almost to the top of the steps to the tower? As darkness fell it was time to retreat inside to enjoy the rich camaraderie that such experiences tend to foster. Upstairs were the bunk beds for when the evening’s tales of local history and childhood adventures finally dried up or eyelids got too heavy.
But there was one last surprise. Thirty minutes before the witching hour Derek set off back towards the shore in the dark. His mission? To escort daughter Krista over to the tower during the night’s low tide, laden with bacon, eggs, mushrooms and fresh tomatoes for breakfast.
When they appeared half an hour or so after midnight Derek called me down to the shingle bank below. Pitch black and my night vision being slow to attune, I couldn’t see a thing. Then, suddenly, I picked up a tiny phosphorescent glow, almost like a permanent soft blue spark. Then another, and another. Five minutes later, my eyes now adjusted to the dark, I could see that I was surrounded by the tiny flickering blue-white lights of bio-luminescent plankton as if the wet shingle were lit up for Christmas.
Moonwalks
Walk the gullies and gutters, cross the sand bars and rock pools and discover Jersey’s very own wilderness area. Revel in the stillness and expanse of an area that is covered twice a day by some of the highest tides in the world (40ft). Walks are sometimes called “Moonwalks” because of the fascinating rock formations found on the seabed. Day and night walks are possible. Participants should be prepared to get wet to the knee (and sometimes higher!). To ensure your safety, enjoyment and to leave little trace on the environment group size on ‘moon walks’ is strictly limited.
Please note: due to the speed the tide rises you should not venture into this area unless you have local knowledge. Other dates and times are possible depending on the tides. Call for details. Please check the website for more information.
See www.jerseywalkadventures.co.uk for dates
Moonwalks and Marine Explorations with Andrew Syvret from Sea Jersey
Forget the rest of the world for a few hours and take a wander with the Island's most experienced seashore guide, marine biologist Andrew Syvret. Experience some of the most remarkable marine habitats on the planet, follow coastal footpaths, visit iconic landmarks, watch precious wildlife and sample our culture, with a true local. Andrew has been showing visitors and residents alike 'the other half of Jersey' for over seventeen years. Join him on either a Moonwalk to Seymour or Icho Towers, a Two Towers walk, covering over 5 miles and visiting both towers, a Lunatic Nightwalk that heads out to the towers around midnight, his West Coast Odyssey walk from Grosnez to La Pulente or enjoy a gentle introduction to maritime Jersey on a stroll to La Corbière Lighthouse. To learn more check out the website.
See www.seajersey.com for more details and dates
Walk With The Stars At Your Feet
As night descends and the ocean recedes star like shapes of luminous green (bioluminescence) begin to twinkle and sparkle in a few special spots off the south east coast. Expect to get your feet wet - maybe up to the knees- as you discover and experience the uniqueness of this area. In just a few hours the ocean will return and cover your footprints by up to 40 feet.
See www.jerseywalkadventures.co.uk for dates
Rock Pool Rambles with Blue Badge Guide Sue Hardy
Discover the wet and wobbly world of rock-pools and the strange creatures who call the incredible tidal habitat of Jersey’s prime RAMSAR site ‘home’. Find out what colour a prawn is...before it’s put on your plate! Discover who lives in which shells, which are vegetarians and who is hunting its prey. Say ‘Hi!’ to a crab, ‘Hello’ to a starfish and meet many other wriggly, wiggly, weird and wonderful creatures. You’ll be amazed at how tough most of these seemingly fragile sea-creatures are! Shoes for paddling are recommended. Be prepared to get wet to the knees; bring a bucket and/or net - or just yourselves. Unaccompanied adults welcome!