Beyond Rozel the island’s rolling fields and farmlands meet the sea in a series of cliffs and rocky bays along an east-facing coast that’s sheltered from westerly gales.
Unlike in the previous section (see Walk North) there is no coastal footpath as such, though an intricate network of country lanes and roads allows plentiful access to the shore. Rozel Bay and Le Scez harbour, about ¾ mile to the east, are two tiny, exquisitely pretty bays separated by a headland where a neolithic (New Stone Age) dolmen still stands. Fliquet Bay, just around the headland from Le Scez, is Jersey’s closest point to the French coast, some 15 miles away – on a clear day you’ll see the fishing ports of Carteret and Portbail.
Fliquet Bay is separated from the broad sweep of St Catherine’s Bay by an immense ½-mile breakwater. It should have been even longer. The breakwater was part of an ambitious plan, never completed, to create a large deepwater harbour strategically close to the French coast. Walk its entire length for exhilarating lungfuls of sea air, and stop off at the busy little breakwater café afterwards.
As part of the grand plan, a sister breakwater should have been built at Archirondel a mile or so south – the site is marked by a red tower. Along the bay there are attractive picnic stops and ½ mile south-west of the breakwater there’s the RNLI inshore lifeboat station, sited next to a white Jersey round tower. As an inland diversion, head south from the station and turn right for St Catherine’s Wood, otherwise known as Rozel Woods – see My Space in this section for more details.
Following the coast road, you’ll soon reach Anne Port, thought to have been the Roman harbour of Antium, one of their names for the island. On the far side of the bay the large bare rock jutting out over the sea is called Le Saut Geoffroi or ‘Jeffrey’s Leap’, a punishment rock from which criminals would be pushed by the executioner. Jeffrey failed to succumb on the first attempt and is reputed to have offered to jump again, perishing as a result.
The next landmark, commanding the headland above Gorey Harbour, is possibly Jersey’s finest. Mont Orgueil Castle is a giant of a fortification, built in a series of defensive steps overlooking the Royal Bay of Grouville.
From here, the coast road leads back to St Helier through the parishes of Grouville and St Clement. It may be tarmac all the way (apart from when you can walk along the beach), but the views are spellbinding.
South of Gorey Harbour, as you walk along the beach or edge of the common you pass the Royal Jersey Golf Club. The square tower is known as Fort Henry, built by Marshall Conway, Governor in the late 18th century (he was also responsible for Jersey’s numerous round towers).
Heading across the parish boundary into St Clement you’ll come across no less than five of these towers, built to defend this vulnerable stretch of coast. Nineteen survive from the original 30, some now converted for domestic use.
The most famous is Seymour Tower, a mile or so offshore from the La Rocque headland at the southern end of Grouville Bay (look out for The Seymour Inn and Seymour slipway). It was built on an islet called L’Avarison, and named after Edward Seymour, Duke of Somerset, who constructed the first tower there in the 1500s.
The French landed here on 6th January 1781 and made their way into St Helier, scene of the Battle of Jersey. Said to be Britain’s last land battle, it was the final time the French made an attempt to take the island.
Seymour Tower is iconic in other ways too. It stands amongst a strange, complex coastline of low-lying reefs and rocks extending westwards to St Helier’s doorstep, a lunar-like seascape that could well be the biggest rock pool in the world. It is made doubly unearthly by the fact that this vast reef system disappears beneath the Atlantic Ocean twice daily, a consequence of Jersey’s massive tides, at 40ft/12m some of the highest in the world. Its importance is reflected in its status as an internationally recognised Ramsar wetland site.
The good news is that it is not a no-go area for walkers. In the company of an experienced guide you can explore its gullies, rocks, sand bars and rich maritime life at low tide on a ‘Moonwalk’ – a Jersey speciality. But don’t be tempted to go it alone!
You can even stay overnight at Seymour Tower on the ultimate Moonwalk. See the Signposting information at the end of this section for details of the walks run by Jersey Walk Adventures.
Back onshore, the last stretch of coast into St Helier is lined with residential housing. It’s an attractive route that’s flat and paved, but if you want to give it a miss you can always hop on a bus back to St Helier – or head inland and explore St Clement’s rural byways.
The Long and Short of it
Walks for all abilities
A linear walk of about six miles starts at Rozel, takes you through St Catherine’s Wood and onto Gorey. It packs in a variety of scenery, coast and country. While the terrain won’t trouble walkers, directions might. Take a detailed map (the 1:25 000 Official Leisure Map is ideal) to make sure you don’t take a wrong turn down one of the little lanes. If you want to extend the walk, go via St Catherine’s Breakwater then into the woods.
Alternatively try the four-mile circular route from Gorey Harbour, which initially follows the B30 (St Martin’s Road) with a short detour to La Pouquelaye de Faldouet prehistoric site (see En Route for details). From the elevated section of the route there are views of the Jersey and Normandy coasts. The route then heads south to Queen’s Valley Reservoir and back through Gorey Village returning at the harbour. It’s a short walk that gives a little taste of a lot of Jersey.
Watching the Wildlife
St Catherine’s Breakwater is an ideal viewing point for seasonal species of birds. Grey herons, oystercatchers, turnstones and the occasional little egret may be seen sifting for food in the rocky gullies beside the breakwater.
If you’re lucky you’ll also see bottlenose dolphins. For the best sightings take a boat trip – the dolphins often shadow smaller vessels in these waters.
St Catherine’s Wood (Rozel Woods), where a valley has been cut by a watercourse, is rich in flora and fauna. It’s one of the largest natural environments open to the public in Jersey. You’re likely to see and hear songbirds such as song thrushes, blackbirds, finches, tits, chiffchaffs, collared doves and wood pigeons.
Red squirrels also live in the woods and elsewhere in the island. Introduced in 1890s, their population in Jersey stands at around 400.
Wildflowers and plants flourish both in the woodland and on the shore. Sea spinach grows prolifically along the coastal walk between St Catherine’s and Archirondel, the Jersey fern thrives on hot summers and wet winters amongst the rocky banks, and ‘three cornered leek’ (stinking onion) is abundant along the hedgerows. Yellow flag irises and purple foxglove provide a riot of colour in springtime.
En Route
Le Dolmen du Couperon
Couperon is a gallery grave with a long chamber surrounded by a ring of 18 outer stones. Dating from 3250–2250BC, it was restored in 1919. It is located at the end of La Rue du Scez overlooking the harbour at Le Scez.
Les Écréhous Reef
This granite reef six miles off the north-east coast expands at low tide by about 80%, revealing a stony, lunar-like landscape and crescent-shaped shingle bank. Boat trips run to the reef in the warmer months – it’s an idyllic, magical spot, and also good for bird and seal-watching.
St Catherine’s Breakwater
Constructed over five years from 1847, it was part of a grand plan to create a harbour for the British Admiralty. The harbour was never completed leaving the breakwater and sea walls, along with the stub of the southern arm at Archirondel. But it does have its uses – it’s popular for walking and angling, and has a popular café.
Rozel Woods
At 65 acres/26 hectares, these are the largest area of woodlands in Jersey. The area, also known as St Catherine’s Wood, is a haven for wildlife and protected as a designated a Site of Special Interest. It includes a large wet meadow where a small flock of sheep have been introduced to increase woodland biodiversity.
La Pouquelaye de Faldouet
This neolithic (New Stone Age) passage grave, 16ft/5m long, has a large capstone on the end chamber weighing around 24 tonnes. It is located inland (north-west of Gorey Harbour) near Haut de la Garenne, Jersey’s Youth Hostel.
Mont Orgueil Castle
Built in the 13th century to protect the island against the French, this jewel in Jersey’s crown is one of the best-preserved castles in Britain. In substance and situation, this is a castle on a theatrical scale. And the theatre continues within, where exhibits and audio-visual shows bring to life Mont Orgueil’s compelling history.
Gorey Harbour and Village
The picturesque harbour and pier set beneath imposing Mont Orgueil Castle is lined with hotels, bistros, pubs and shops. The village itself, a short distance south-west of the harbour, has a friendly little shopping centre, pottery and narrow streets of fishermen’s cottages built for the oyster industry of the early to mid-1800s.
Jersey Pottery
Gorey Village is home to the famous Jersey Pottery, sold in many countries around the world and in department stores like Harrods and Fortnum and Mason. It’s one of the island’s most most-visited venues. In addition to the large shop there are demonstration areas, a hand’s on ‘Glaze Craze’, children’s attractions and café and restaurant.
Queen’s Valley Reservoir
This large reservoir, west of Gorey Village, contains over 260 million gallons of water. Its arboretum makes it an especially lush and safe habitat for a wealth of wildlife. The entire shoreline can be explored of a circular path of almost two miles.
And Along the Coast…
Other points of interest on the way from Gorey to St Helier include the Royal Jersey Golf Club, the round tower at Le Hocq, and Green Island, a sheltered beach and suntrap complete with café.
Top Tip
You can't miss it . . . Mont Orgueil Castle, Jersey most iconic building. The castle dates to the 13th century and was built to defend Jersey from the French when king John lost control of Normandy to King Philip of France.
Signposting
Download the following self-guided walks from or collect copies from Jersey Tourism’s Visitor Centre when you arrive:
Coastal Walk – Bouley Bay to Gorey
Grouville Parish Walk
St Clement Parish Walk
St Martin Parish Walk
Food Trail – Hens Have Never Been Happier
Pub Walk – St Martin’s Round
Pub Walk – A Grouville Gander
Jersey Tourism sells publications with detailed circular and linear routes of varying lengths. The following guides contain walks between Rozel and St Helier:
| Jersey Jaunts |
Walks 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 |
| Jersey Rambles |
Walks 1, 2, 4, 5 |
| Landscape Guide |
Walks 9, 10, 11, 14 |
| A Stroll Around the Stones |
Walks 1, 2, 3, 4, 16, 18 |
Moonwalks
Moonwalks are low-tide walks crossing gullies, sand bars and rock pools. These walks are only available with Jersey Walk Adventures.